History.
On the way into Punta Arenas from the airport the other day
we spotted the topmasts of a pair of square riggers. They were too far inshore
to be on the water, the rigs appeared to be complete, and I’d heard that there
was a replica of Magellans ship somewhere so,
today we drove down there for a look around.
Bingo, a small maritime museum! Small? Sort of, FULL SIZED replicas of
Magellans ship, the HMS Beagle, the James Caird and an
Azores whaleboat plus a typical Chilean coastal trading schooner.
All built on site from local lumber, interiors as per the
originals, no sails but rigged.
Amazing !
Looking over the “Trinidad” replica, it is evident that life
on board would have been extremely hard. She’s no cruise liner, and when one
considers how poorly those Carracks and Caravels sailed to windward, and how
difficult some of the areas which they explored are, its not suprising that
only 18 of the almost 250 men who set out on the journey made it back to
Europe.
The next ship we called on was what I think is an Azorean
Whaleboat. There were no signs to tell
us the history but those boats are distinctive.
The lines shout speed, and there was a lot of whale hunting here in the
south in the 1800s.
From there, it was up the stairs and onto the replica of “
HMS Beagle”, that’s Darwins ship, the man who developed the theory of
evolution.
She’s a typical ship riggedsquare rigger of her era and the
difference between her and the Trinidad is very evident. The Beagle would sail rings around her much
older predecessor, and the accommodations while tight and uncomfortable by our
standards are much better than Trinidads
middle decks.
middle decks.
The James Caird replica reminded us of the extraordinary
voyage by Ernest Shackleton from Elephant Island on the Antarctic ice across
the Drake Passage between the ice and Cape Horn to South Georgia island. Such a
tiny cockleshell, canvas decked, navigated by the simplest of instruments and
with essentially no accommodations other than being under the very makeshift
decks.
There is also a replica coastal schooner, not a boat in
which we were particularly interested. We’ll be back sometime, and will get
pics of that as well.
All of these built there on the spot by local labour, with
very little equipment other than hand tools and a big table saw. Well worth the visit!
When we came back though, there was mischief afoot. So to
speak.
Toe was sneaking out with one of the Flora twins, you can
see she’s letting him take the lead and he has his laces around her to comfort
her when the pair of them know that they’ve been caught.
They’re now back in the bottom of the wardrobe, separate
ends, doors closed. Grounded!
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